How We Apply
Render & Plastering

We tap test the entire elevation to identify hollow, loose, or delaminating material. Any failing sections are cut back to sound masonry. We also check for damp penetration, cracks, and movement that could affect adhesion. Nothing is covered up — every issue is addressed before the first coat goes on.

A professional bonding primer is applied to the prepared surface. This equalises suction across the substrate — critical with monocouche because uneven suction causes colour patching and adhesion failure in the finished coat. We never skip this step.

Monocouche render is applied in a single thick coat of 12–15mm, combining the structural strength of a base coat with the aesthetics of a finish coat. The material is gauged to exact consistency and applied by hand in sections, maintaining a wet edge to prevent joints showing in the finished surface.

Before the render fully sets, the surface is textured to the agreed finish. Scraped finish gives a smooth, stone-like appearance by drawing a straight edge across the surface. Roughcast finish adds aggregate for a more rustic, textured look. Timing is critical — too early and the render smears; too late and it won't work.

The colour is mixed uniformly throughout the monocouche material before application — not painted on afterwards. This means the colour runs through the full 12–15mm depth, delivering UV-stable results that won't fade, peel, or require repainting for 20+ years.

Monocouche requires a full 7–14 day cure to achieve maximum hardness, adhesion strength, and weather resistance. We advise against high-pressure washing or impact during this period. After full cure, the surface is extremely durable and requires no ongoing maintenance.

We begin with a full building survey, moisture assessment, and thermal modelling. This calculates the existing U-value of your walls, models the improvement achieved with different insulation thicknesses, and confirms the correct specification. No guesswork — we give you the numbers before work starts.

Professional scaffold is erected around the property. The existing wall surface is thoroughly cleaned and inspected. Any defects — cracks, damp patches, loose material — are repaired before insulation goes on. The damp-proof course is inspected and bridging risks assessed.

Insulation boards — EPS (expanded polystyrene), PUR (polyurethane), or Mineral Wool depending on specification — are adhesive-bonded and mechanically fixed to the wall. Boards are staggered at joints, cut tightly to window and door reveals, and laid with zero gaps. Any gap is a thermal bridge and a future failure point.

Every board joint, external corner, window reveal, and wall penetration is fitted with purpose-made profiles and sealed. This eliminates thermal bridges — the gaps in the insulation envelope where heat escapes. Skipping this stage compromises the system's thermal performance significantly.

A polymer-modified base coat is applied over the insulation boards. Alkali-resistant fibreglass mesh is embedded into the wet base coat across all elevations. This reinforcement layer provides structural integrity and crack resistance for the render finish above.

The chosen finish render — silicone, monocouche, or acrylic — is applied over the prepared base coat in your chosen colour and texture. Silicone is the premium choice for EWI due to its flexibility and hydrophobic properties, allowing the system to breathe while resisting water ingress.

Once complete, a full elevation inspection is carried out. We check adhesion, render coverage, edge details, and surface finish. Warranty documentation is issued — both our 5-year workmanship guarantee and the manufacturer's system warranty. You pay only when you're satisfied. No deposit ever.

We tap test walls and ceilings to identify hollow, loose, or blown plaster. We check for damp, staining, and movement cracks. Any structural issues or damp sources are identified and flagged before we start. A fair quote is only possible once we know exactly what we're working with.

All loose and hollow plaster is removed back to the sound substrate. The surface is cleaned of dust, grease, and contamination. Masonry is dampened to control suction. PVA bonding agent is applied where required. Metal angle beads are fixed to all external corners to produce crisp, durable arrises.

On masonry surfaces, a bonding or scratch coat is applied at 8–11mm to build up to the required depth and provide a mechanical key for the finish coat. On plasterboard surfaces, scrim tape is applied to joints before jointing compound and a base skim are applied.

The first coat is ruled off with a feather-edge straight across the full surface of the wall or ceiling. This produces a flat, level plane for the finish coat to sit on. Any undulations, hollow spots, or high points are corrected at this stage. A flat first coat is the foundation of a perfect finish.

Finish plaster is applied in two thin passes at 2–3mm total. The first pass is laid on and spread flat; the second pass is applied before the first fully sets. The surface is worked with a trowel in wide arcing passes, and finally laid off to a hard, smooth finish completely free of trowel marks, lines, and air bubbles.

Fresh plaster needs 2–4 weeks to dry fully before decorating, depending on thickness, ventilation, and temperature. We advise on the correct drying conditions — gentle ventilation, no direct heat, windows slightly open. We carry out a full quality inspection with you before leaving site. 5-year guarantee. Zero deposit.

Walls and ceilings are measured and the installation method agreed — dot and dab adhesive, direct fix, or metal stud framing. Services (pipes, cables, sockets) are identified and mapped. Insulation specification is confirmed. Thermal and acoustic requirements are discussed to ensure the right board and thickness selection.

For dot and dab installations, masonry is cleaned and checked for plumb; adhesive dabs are applied at standard centres. For metal stud systems, floor and ceiling track is fixed, vertical studs are installed at 400mm centres, and the frame is checked for plumb and level throughout.

Boards are cut to size, offered up, and fixed into the adhesive dabs or screwed directly to the metal studs. Tapered edges are aligned for jointing. Cut edges are kept to internal corners where they'll be covered by the joint finish. Boards are checked for flatness as each sheet goes up.

Scrim tape is pressed into all board joints and internal angles. Metal angle beads are fixed to all external corners. Jointing compound is applied over the tape, feathered out wide to either side, and left to set. A second pass may be required on wider boards or where movement is expected.

A 2–3mm skim finish coat is applied over the full boarded area and worked to a hard, smooth finish. The surface dries ready to decorate in 2–4 days. A final inspection is carried out with you on completion — checking flatness, corner accuracy, and overall finish quality. 5-year workmanship guarantee issued. Zero deposit.